I am Luke Anthony Rooney studying Fashion Design
Bohemian/Romantic/Floral/Gliiter & Pearls/Kurt Cobain/Bette Davis and plenty of Perspex!!
When observing the collection that Louise Gray created for Autumn/Winter 2012 it was evident that there was one thing not on her mind. That of digital prints! In today’s computer obsessed world there seems to be no end to their uses, this has transferred itself over to fashion with designers using digital prints more so than the traditional silk screen printing techniques! Although designers such as Mary Katrantzou and Emma Cook may be pushing many boundaries and exploring different directions with these prints, it can be quite saddening to see something as traditional and creative as silk screen printing disappearing.
Luckily Louise Gray is somebody who is fighting against using digital prints within her collections. She explores brilliant ways within screen printing. Whilst interning with her this season there were a few dresses that she printed which were using a very affective way of printing.
On one dress, she had created it completely out of sequins and then screen printed on top of the sequins. I’m not saying that this idea has not been explored before, however the effect it gives is really something quite different. With parts of the sequins printed over it gave the other sequins a chance to glimpse out from around the paint. Overall constricting itself around the body. If you can imagine the wearer walking across London Bridge at midnight with the lights shining down on her and little shots of sequins slashing from side to side as she walks you can really imagine something quite spectacular!
This green dress (personally one of my favourites from the collection) is another different use of print. that of foil! Clearly a very affective printing method within screen printing. with the jagged pattern on the dress as well as the many little bows which Louise sat in the studio stitching together onto the dress it really is a piece that shows her personal identity.
This season Louise took on a task which could have easily not paid off, however it seemed to work. Making something very sparkly, colourful and utterly chic and turning it somehow into something casual, comfortable and easily worn to Lunch! In the picture above you can see the dress is similar to the previous green one with its sharp shot of colour and on top of that the sparkle and shine of the beautiful pink foil. This dress is very easily imaginable for cocktails or to go clubbing, however what Louise did was put a jumper underneath…Genius!! Looking at the outfit with the jumper underneath with little knitted sculptures around the neckline (made by a friend of mine and recent graduate of Middlesex) it gives the outfit an entirely different look! somehow i feel that this dress could now be worn to lunch! It can also be worn on a winters night very easily!!
Even though Louise said this collection ‘was just dresses’ it is clear to see that ‘just dresses’ can really be just as powerful as a woman in a sharp sculptured suit. She uses traditional screen printing methods in such interesting ways which I as a screen printing fan really do appreciate! She does not seem to be looking towards digital printing any time soon! The great thing about this designer is that I do not think we will ever see just a plain black dress walking down the runway, which to be quite frank I don’t want to see any time soon!!@1 year ago